Where One Night is Enough – and Where it isn’t – on the Great Ocean Road, that’s the one query I get every single week, usually from some poor soul staring at a map and underestimating just how short this coastal drive looks. I’m Paul Beames, a long-time Aussie travel writer, and I’ve learned the hard way that this road will give short shrift to any traveller with a rushed itinerary – you need to take it easy, mate.
On paper, this drive is a doddle. But in reality, it’s a whole different story, with corners, caravans, packed car parks, people pulling over for a quick snap, and weather that just doesn’t care about your booking confirmation. The trick of the trade isn’t trying to cram more in – it’s knowing where one night’s stay does the trick, and where hanging around for another day will completely turn the experience on its head.
Why Distance Doesn’t Matter On This Coast
The Great Ocean Road stretches out 243 kilometres from Torquay to Allansford, but once you hit Aireys Inlet, the speed drops off sideways. You’ve got tight bends, tour buses, wildlife crossings, and just about every popular lookout in the world, all of which combine to turn what looks like short distances into a real long haul behind the wheel.
VicRoads traffic data shows that on summer weekends, travel time can increase by up to 60 per cent on key routes. That’s why getting your overnight stop sorted out is more important than checking off all the landmarks. Get it wrong, and you’ll spend more time circling around looking for a park than actually soaking up the view.
Torquay & Bells Beach
Torquay has the feel of a place at the start of something, and that’s exactly what it is. You can get a taste of the Surf Coast vibe by popping into Bells Beach, Winki Pop, the Surf Museum, and Surf City Plaza – all within a pretty short space of time.
One night in Torquay is sufficient; it works best as a staging post. It’s busy, close to Melbourne, and there are often events, such as the Rip Curl Pro, so it’s lively. My advice is to stay the night, grab a bite to eat, catch some shut-eye, and then get on the road early, before the traffic starts building up behind the campervans and learner drivers.
Lorne, Wye River & Kennett River
Lorne looks like a pretty sweet spot for a long break, but the crowds soon change its vibe. You can cram in Teddy’s Lookout, Erskine Falls, a stroll along the foreshore and dinner at the Lorne Hotel in the one afternoon if you’re well organised.
Nearby Wye River and Kennett River are worth a quick detour, especially if you’re chasing a glimpse of some koalas lazing about by the roadside. Unless you’re serious about tackling the Otways on foot, one night is plenty. Any longer and you’ll be dodging group tours all day.
Port Campbell and Princetown
If there’s one spot where people tend to overstay, it’s Port Campbell. This town exists almost solely for getting access to good stuff, rather than actually giving you a nice atmosphere in the place. What you’re really getting is proximity to the big-name attractions.
From here, you can just stroll to the Twelve Apostles – or as I’ve seen some people call them, the 12 Apostles – Gibson Steps, Gibson Beach, Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, The Grotto, and The Arch. If you time it right, one night lets you catch sunrise or sunset without having to deal with the crowds twice in one day. But stay longer, and you’ll find yourself doing the same old thing repeatedly.
That’s why many Great Ocean Road tours base here for just one night before moving on.
Cape Otway And The Lighthouse Country
The detour out to Cape Otway feels alarmingly remote – and that’s exactly why it does. The Otway Lighthouse dominates the skyline, looming above the wild seas where Little Penguins try to nest on tiny patches of land, and you can be sure the weather will turn nasty on a whim.
This isn’t your 5-minute photo opportunity. Give it some time, and you’ll start to notice the way the silence falls over the place, the way the light does its best to dance on the waves, and just how blasted exposed this coastline is. Trying to cram the whole experience into one night is just not doing it any justice.
The Shipwreck Coast They Don’t Tell You About
West of Port Campbell – and don’t go expecting a horde of people – because the crowds just sort of thin out. You get to places like the Bay of Islands, the Bay of Martyrs, Childers Cove, Muttonbird Island, and the Bay of Islands Coastal Park, which all have a beauty that’s just not being ruined by tour buses and queues.
If you base yourself a bit further along at Port Fairy, the Moyne River meanders through the heart of town, there are kilometres of coastal walks just waiting for you, and the food scene in the place is seriously better than you’d expect. Two nights starts to look like a pretty good idea for the first time in a while.
Getting Your Timing Right
Of course, summer brings the crowds and the long daylight hours, but it’s also the time when things get really, really slow. Autumn‘s the sweet spot – still warm but not too bad with the crowds. Winter‘s all about the drama and the waterfalls, but the daylight hours are a bit shorter. Spring‘s the unpredictable one – all green and lovely, but you never quite know what you’re going to get.
And let’s get one thing straight, if the weather is crap or there’s a fire risk, you’re just going to have to accept it and plan your trip around it – no amount of wishing is going to change the fact that some places are just going to be closed.
This is why so many travellers who are up against it and short on time end up choosing operators like Wildlife Tours in Australia, who aren’t afraid to tell it like it is and build itineraries that actually account for the realities of the situation, not some idyllic daydream.
My Hardwired Rule Of Thumb
After spending years driving and exploring this part of the country, I’ve developed a simple rule. One night works just fine if you’re just churning out the kilometres and snapping the odd photo at places like Port Campbell or Lorne. But if you’re planning to do something like walking, swimming, or just sitting back and taking it all in, you’ll need to stay a bit longer. So far, this rule has served me pretty well.
I’ve also seen that a smart 2 day Great Ocean Road tour can outshine a bloated self-drive trip any day, simply because the pace has been right.
The Last Word From The Road
You can forget about the Great Barrier Reef and Kangaroo Island – The Great Ocean Road is a whole other story. Sure, it’s smaller and busier than you might be expecting, and you can get to it in an easy day trip from Melbourne… but don’t let that fool you – this place demands some respect. Choose wisely where you stop for the night, slow down where it really matters, and you’ll have some stories to tell by the time you finish this drive.
FAQ
Can you cram both Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge into one day?
If you’re coming from Port Campbell or Princetown, you can try to squeeze it in during the off-season, but let’s be honest – it’s going to be a rush during peak season.
Is Apollo Bay or Lorne the better bet if you’ve got a few nights up your sleeve?
For most people, Apollo Bay is the clear winner here. It has better access to Otway National Park and will be quieter.
Are Otway’s roads a problem for standard cars?
The main routes are sealed, but after a heavy downpour, conditions can be slippery.
Where’s the Shipwreck Coast at its most relaxed?
If you want to get away from all the hustle and bustle of the Apostles area, head on over to Bay of Islands Coastal Park and Childers Cove – you’ll see hardly anyone there.
When is the best time to take on the road?
If you can make it mid-week in the autumn or winter months, you’ll be golden – less traffic, more room to breathe – it’s a much more relaxed time to be on the move.
